Hopping Off the Train In Vicenza


Il centro di Vicenza © Nuovo Centro Italiano
Cold. Hazy. Filtered sun. This is the heart of winter in the heart of the Veneto region. On the train to Vicenza, there are many impressions. The ever-present piumino quilted coats provide puffy protection from the elements. Telefonini are fondled, instant messages composed, sent, received—not a soul without a cell phone. Students making their way home for the holidays, book bags and backpacks tossed, straddled, in the way.

Vicenza is one of the towns on the busy rail line that connects Venice with Milan, located somewhere between "why would anyone stop here" and "maybe it'll be worth a look on the next trip." It seems to lack the must-see element that provides the draw to other Italian cities. For sure, it is not a Florence-caliber city with all of its famous art and stuff, but it cannot be said that Vicenza is totally without its own charm.

For some, in fact, Vicenza has an irresistible appeal. At first glance, the edifices of the centro storico are not unlike many other historic town centers. Except here, there is at least one significant difference. This is a town that can be like a shrine to architecture buffs given that it is here that one Andrea Palladio (1508-1580)—he of the Palladium style, as many will find familiar if just by name—resided and created perhaps his most notable work. This is an individual whose ideas about architecture continue to inspire as they have through the years.

Look no further than Thomas Jefferson's Monticello to see the effect of Palladio's influence. It is fair to say that most, if not all, neo-classical architectural design elements may be traced to some degree to Palladio. A walk through the streets of the old town offers multiple examples of Palladio-designed palazzi. Grab a map at the tourist office and see them all. Most are within easy walking distance, except, as fate would have it, the most famous of them all, the Rotunda, which is better visited by bus or bike as it lies a bit out of town to the south. Among the buildings to see are the Olympic Theater, next to the Tourist Information Office, and the duomo, not to mention the many others.

Aside from the impressive architecture, Vicenza has other things to see. The fact is that Vicenza, more so than many other Italian cities, seems to be a work-a-day municipality. One main local industry is the gold jewelry business, resulting in ample glittering jewelry store windows to inspect and ogle. But shoppers will also find a variety of other stores selling Italian fashions and the like. What one may find refreshing is the absence of souvenir shops and the trinket peddlers.

If arriving by train, the heart of the city is a relatively short walk away, perhaps 20 minutes at a leisurely pace, along a wide avenue. If a bus is more what you have in mind, they are readily available outside the train station doors. Where the avenue comes to an end, there is a public space. On the left is the modern city center; while to the right is the massive gate leading into the old town center. Make the obvious choice and go right. Follow the cobbled streets wherever they may lead you. Grab a panino when and where you find a lunch spot that is full of locals dining and sipping in anticipation of their respective afternoon agendas.

A day is most likely adequate to see what there is to see in Vicenza. As a destination, it is close enough to Venice, Padua, Verona, and maybe even Milan to visit with some amount of spontaneity. In any case, it is worth a look.

If you are the type of traveler that likes to truly immerse yourself in your surroundings, contact Magda at Nuovo Centro Italiano and find out more about language courses.

(This article was written by our contributor, David Berger.)




 

Travel Tips

An Occasional Series About Italy

Vicenza
Hopping Off the
Train in the Veneto

A Visit to Ravenna
Out of the way,
but worth a day

Remembering the Agriturismo
Italian country living

Side Trip to San Marino
The hilltop republic

Bite Into the Veneto
A year of regional flavors and delicacies

Discovering the Dolomites
Ortisei and the surrounding mountains

Post-season in Puglia
and other Adriatic adventures