Side Trip to San Marino


Scorcio panoramico © Nuovo Centro Italiano
No doubt it can be exhilarating—not to mention death-defying—to go zipping along the autostrada, Italy's effectively "speed limit optional" superhighways. But those who limit themselves to the confines of these limited-access motorways, so nicely interlacing together the primary urban centers, run the risk of bypassing destinations that are worth a quick side trip. This is true especially for the traveler who is inclined to strict adherence to a pre-established itinerary that strives to make the most of what is inevitably and infuriatingly a visit that is long on stuff to see and short on time to see it.

Along the autostrada that connects the city of Bologna to points south along the Adriatic coastline, there is one detour that offers a unique claim. At about the point that one passes the resort of Rimini near the border between the regions of Emilia-Romagna and Marche, there is found a somewhat unique geographic point of interest. However, this is not just some turn-out for a quick snap shot. Here, just inland from the coast, one will locate not just another picturesque Italian hilltown, but a whole separate country surrounded on all sides by Italy. This is the Republic of San Marino.

According to the CIA World Factbook, San Marino has a total population of about 28,000 living in an area of just over 61 square kilometers—that's about one-third the land area of Washington DC. The country is third on the list of smallest countries in Europe, after the Vatican and Monaco, and claims to be among the earliest republics having been founded, according to tradition, in the year 301.

Indeed, these are but a few of the San Marino factoids for the trivia buff. Beyond keeping such information in mind for self-edification, an excursion across the border into San Marino does not require much of an adjustment for the visitor. The Sammarinese use the Euro in commerce and speak Italian. Notable differences seem limited to a distinct license plate, the sudden appearance of a flag that contains not a hint of the familiar Italian tricolor but instead a central crest on a background of horizontal bands of white and blue, and, for the philatelically-minded, San Marino postage stamps. However, there is much to behold as one finds out upon exploration of this enclave that is truly a country inside a country.

The municipality of San Marino, not surprisingly the seat of government, is located high on a hilltop and is the archetypal citadel complete with a castle that offers sweeping views of the surrounding topography. To the east on a clear day it is possible to see the Adriatic off in the distance. To the north and west lie the rugged and imposing mountains of the Appenine range which runs almost the entire length of Italy from north to south.

In the piazza under the clock tower, visitors jockey for photo opportunities of the countryside far below that will never quite capture the true essence of what it is like to survey the panorama from the grand but tidy aerie. The streets are pedestrian friendly, if at times a bit claustrophobic and narrow, and do not lack storefronts selling a wide variety of knick-knacks for the throngs of tourists that one is likely to find.

Off the main promenades are quiet neighborhoods that cling to the hillside and will connect with long stairways as a result of terrain that makes it difficult to reach all places by car. In fact, there is even a cable car lift that connects those on the lower flank of the hill with the top, offering an alternative to driving the relatively narrow and winding road. Be forewarned that a weekend trip to San Marino during the high tourist season will probably mean streets thick with crowds and difficult parking. Not surprisingly, this mini-state draws many to see its vistas.

So, if a side trip can be managed while passing through this area of Italy, it is worthwhile to spend a couple of hours visiting San Marino. If you are the type of traveler that likes to truly immerse yourself in your surroundings, contact Magda at Nuovo Centro Italiano and find out more about language courses and travel consultations.

(This article was written by our contributor, David Berger.)




 

Travel Tips

An Occasional Series About Italy

Vicenza
Hopping Off the
Train in the Veneto

A Visit to Ravenna
Out of the way,
but worth a day

Remembering the Agriturismo
Italian country living

Side Trip to San Marino
The hilltop republic

Bite Into the Veneto
A year of regional flavors and delicacies

Discovering the Dolomites
Ortisei and the surrounding mountains

Post-season in Puglia
and other Adriatic adventures