Discovering the Dolomites

From the valley floor, it appears to be just another quaint alpine village—pedestrian friendly streets lined with souvenir shops and gelato stops with the town church anchoring the central square. All is clean and Tyrolean in style. The main road through the valley follows the path of the rushing torrent that flows from some distant spring or glacier. In every direction the tree-covered slopes of the foreground barely obscure the serrated peaks and dominating ridges of the Dolomites. This is Alto Adige… mountain country. It is here that the adventurous traveler will find the town of Ortisei and the scenic majesty of Val Gardena, Val d'Anna, and Val di Siusi.

Scorcio panoramico della Val di Siusi
© Nuovo Centro Italiano

Ortisei serves more than adequately as a focal point for exploring the surrounding area. One can easily reach the cable cars that transport skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer to the alpine vistas high above the town bustle. Likewise, on a visit in the summer it is possible to trek from the town itself without the aid of any lift into Val d'Anna where a lodge awaits the persistent walker and where refreshments are available to enjoy on the terrace. A small plank-work and flower-bedecked hunter's cabin is also on the grounds and serves as a reminder of the area's sylvan culture.

On the opposite side of the valley, is a cable car that carries riders first over sloping pastures and the farmhouses that dot the hillside, and then lifts occupants over steep, tree-covered terrain to what appears to be an unassuming ridge. Upon reaching the top, however, the landscape opens into an impossibly gorgeous high altitude valley that could inspire a yodel from just about anybody.

Stepping down from the cable car platform, one stands on the edge of a vast alpine meadow in the shape of an amphitheater surrounded by dramatic peaks and bluffs. The soundtrack for the experience is provided by the breeze and the gentle but distinct clanging of cowbells that is carried upon it. Indeed, cows lazing on the hillside form the Welcoming Committee, but one shouldn't be offended if they don't get up. They are generally perfectly content to let visitors pass through while they recline on the grassy slopes. In the winter, this is a skier's paradise, but in the summer, the cows roam freely. Maybe the air is just a little too clean and fresh for visitors, but with the combination of the scenery, the sunshine, and the cows, it is hard not to be just giddy over the whole experience.

If the excursion evokes hunger or thirst, not to fear. Because your trek may lead you to an alpine refuge called a malga. Here you will find all the hospitality of the region, not to mention some great food and drink. Refuel with some bread, wine, or beer and partake of the local flavor by trying some of the cheese or fresh milk delivered courtesy of the cows that are wandering around in front. Sitting outside and soaking in the grandeur will leave a lasting impression that will not soon diminish even as the cable car descends back to Ortisei or as Val Gardena disappears in the rear view mirror.

If you are the type of traveler that likes to truly immerse yourself in your surroundings, contact Magda at Nuovo Centro Italiano and find out more about language courses and travel consultations.

(This article was written by our contributor, David Berger.)