Remembering the Agriturismo

There is a place where the chickens of the manor sit high in autumn's leafless branches like the plumed potentates of the garden. Perhaps they are just trying to get a view at what is happening through the windows of the second story. Maybe they would just rather not be chased around the premises by wave after wave of energetic children with 20 or 30 minutes of nothing better to do. The old black dog that wanders the yard would like to play, but at least is eager to show that his best trick is to gulp at pebbles tossed in the air. He'll even swallow them if given the chance. The steeply sloping pasture that tumbles down the hillside is home to a very noisy and understandably skittish gaggle of geese. They act as if they were truly paranoid of the occupants emerging from the cars that collect in the parking area come lunchtime. Indeed, it would not be surprising if this were the case considering the specialitá della casa.

Il mercato di Venezia. © Nuovo Centro Italiano

Visitors to this place might notice these things upon arrival after climbing the winding road, but the scenery is only secondary. The fresh air that one encounters here in the pre-alps, the foothills of the Dolomites, is but a fortunate benefit of geography that serves to heighten one's senses and anticipation. The ultimate goal of the gathering crowd is to get to the inside of the sturdy structure at the plateau, a grand old farmhouse, where tables are prepared in rustic finery, to commence with the dining experience that draws the folks from near and far. This is what can await the intrepid seeker of essential Italian country living. The agriturismo represents a manifestation of classic, and perhaps stereotypical, bella vita—the good life. It is a working farm that welcomes guests to the table and invites them to a treat of artisan cuisine made from ingredients gathered from the very land on which it sits.

In the case of the farmhouse in the foothills, that means a variety of offerings featuring the fine-feathered farm fowl that intuitively ran away from diners as they arrived—the oca. There are the piatti of cured cold cuts, the meat sauce over the pappardelle pasta, and spit-roasted versions. The lucky among the guests are seated next to the sizeable open hearth where the spit turns during the early courses of the meal. The aroma of what is to come fuels the appetite as the coals do their job and then some radiating heat throughout the dining area.

Obviously, this is not going to be the best dining option for those who are less inclined to eat meat. But for those omnivores among us, it is a culinary adventure worth remembering. And really, is it not truly a pity to go to Italy and leave without having a truly memorable dining experience?

As the meal winds down, patrons can expect one final delivery to the table. A tray appears with a selection of grappa, or the digestivo, to aid—or so they say—with digestion after having indulged in a banquet reminiscent of some roman-era feast in the gorge-atorium. The bottled concoctions that are available come in a variety of infusions ranging from asparagus to juniper. Be adventurous and take a sip of each.

As one might guess, a given agriturismo will be unique from others depending on such variables as region and season. For example, one might find a farmhouse in the middle of the vast flat farmland near the sea in the Veneto region during the height of the radicchio harvest. The bitter red and white cabbage-esque vegetable might appear repeatedly throughout the courses on the menu-in the risotto, as a vegetable side dish in one or more contorni, or perhaps even in the lasagne served just prior to the roasted pheasant. And speaking of multiple courses, generally speaking, the menu will be pre-determined by the proprietor. But rest assured that what is lacking in personal selection is more than rewarded by trusting the kitchen to the experts at the controls.

At another agriturismo the discovery might be a farmer who serves faire that is straight from the livestock living a few meters out the back door of the heavily timbered dining hall where the selection of grilled meat is an Atkins dieter's dream come true or the cardio-clogging special, depending on your perspective. Either way, it is a healthy dose of protein. And in the end it really doesn't matter considering the exquisite red wine and prosecco that the host offers with reckless abandon to the delight of the guests.

As an added bonus, for those who might be looking to not eat and run, many of these establishments offer overnight accommodations and even package deals for stays that can last for days. But here is the best part…for the superlative food, the abundant quantities, and the fabulous experience, typically the cost is extremely reasonable, especially when compared to many dining options in the cities. To be sure, it is necessary to get off the beaten path to reach the agriturismo, but those who make the effort will not leave disappointed.

If you are the type of traveler that likes to truly immerse yourself in your surroundings, contact Magda at Nuovo Centro Italiano and find out more about language courses and travel consultations.

(This article was written by our contributor, David Berger.)